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ΕλληνικάCASE STUDY
Case study 1: Cotton production in Xinjiang
https://www.bbc.com/news/business-50312010
CONTEXT:
After polyester, cotton is the second most widely used fiber for clothing production, and many fast fashion and sportswear brands above all, but also luxury brands, source from Chinese companies.
DESCRIPTION
One fifth of the world’s cotton supply and 85% of China’s cotton is harvested in the Xinjiang region of China. Harvesting and processing it, is an army of more than half a million slaves belonging to the Islamic ethnic minority of the Uighurs.
In addition to work in the fields, to which more than a million people are believed to have been assigned, the minorities are also forced to work in textile factories.
Numerous international NGOs have denounced situations of human rights violations, speaking of torture, violence and forced sterilization.
The Chinese government denies the allegations, insisting that the camps are ‘vocational training schools’ and the factories are part of a massive and voluntary ‘poverty alleviation’ program despite the evidence reported by NGOs.
The US has banned products made in Xinjiang since July 2021, while the French justice system has opened an investigation for crimes against humanity against several fashion groups, following a complaint filed by several NGOs and humanitarian associations.
Despite being called to account, many brands have not spoken out clearly on the matter: some have denied having direct business relations with the suppliers involved, others have claimed to have no information regarding their suppliers’ subcontractors or have distanced themselves by saying that they had signed charters of good conduct banning forced labor in their production chains prior to the scandal.
This situation is possible because brands are not held legally responsible for the bad practices of their suppliers.
These arguments put at the center of the debate the question of corporate responsibility for the lack of knowledge of their supply chain.
Strict rules are needed to regulate the human rights conduct of companies in order to identify and prevent abuses arising from their business activities along the supply chain. But if such violations come to light, it is imperative to implement effective and immediate remedial actions and take action on their own.
LESSON LEARNT
This happens in the region of Xinjiang, but in other parts of the world workers in the fashion industry are subjected to forced and hazardous labor.
Any brand who cares about ethics should ask and get as much information as possible about their suppliers and source materials with certifications from competent and reliable institutions, to not support this kind of situations.
Under the shining surface of fashion there are often injustices and violations, we all need to start questioning how we work.
Case study 2: Ganni Provenance®
CONTEXT:
It is difficult for consumers to figure out which product is more sustainable; they often lack the tools and/or time to do so. Greenwashing does not facilitate responsible purchasing choices, whit certain brands sharing vague and unverified information that does not
DESCRIPTION:
The brand, in order to protect its customers from greenwashing, has chosen to rely on Provenance®, a transparency technology solution for reliable sustainability claims. In fact, every Provenance®-based claim is backed by easily searchable third-party evidence and verification.
Information about materials and companies is available for several items in the collection.
Once the product is selected, it is possible to click on the Provenance® icon and see the various stages of its supply chain, from design, through yarn spinning, fabric making, garment production-in short, all the companies where the product was processed.
In doing so, Ganni makes it easier for customers to consciously inform themselves and make responsible purchasing choices.
With the slogan “We believe in being honest not perfect,” Ganni shares its sustainability journey in a transparent way, even where its practices are not perfect, showing the difficulties of this journey and sharing it with its customer.
LESSON LEARNT
Sustainability should be approached as a continuous improvement process made up of small steps and you should not be afraid to show the difficulties relate to it.
The modern consumer is increasingly attentive to these issues; their active involvement is perceived as a form of authenticity, which creates a sense of trust in the brand.